Trousers



- V,\p"ril:s,19." 4.` Y w. P. GOLDMAN 1,953,065

TROUSERS original Filed Jan. 29, 1930 4 sheets-sheet 1 www INVE ToR BY@MW/gh ATTORNEYS April 3, 1934. w. P. GOLDMAN TROUSERS original FiledJan. 29, 1930 4 sheets-sheet 2 www@ TTORNEYS April 3, 1934. w P, GOLDMANl 1,953,065

TROUSERS original Filed Jan. 29. 19:50 4 sheets-sheet s ATToRNi-:Yl

April 3, 1934. w. P. GOLDMAN j 1,953,065

TROUSERS Original Filed Jan. 29, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 BY ZM fm ATTORNEY5` INVENTOR Patented Apr. 3, 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICEApplication January 29, 1930, Serial No. 424,194 Renewed December 22,1933 3 Claims.

My invention relates to a new and improved method' of sewing trousers,and to a new and improved trouser.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide a `methodv whereby thecurtain portions of trousers can be sewed thereto by means of a blindstitch', so as to eliminate the necessity of hand sewing and to producea better and cheaper article.

Another object of my invention is to provide a method whereby a pair oftrousers having beltloops upon the exterior thereof, can have thecurtain portion sewed thereto by means of a blind stitch, so as to speedup production and 15 make a superior article.

Another-object of my invention is to make it possible to utilize a blindstitch machine of modied` type, inV order to produce the rib or bightnecessary for" the formation ofthe blind stitch.

Other objectsof` my invention will be set forth in the followingdescription and drawings which illustrate a preferred embodimentthereof, it beingl understood thatthe above general statement of theobjectsof my invention is intended merely to generally explain the same.

Fig.- 1 isa side elevation showing one of the typesioi blind stitchsewing machines which may be modified to practice the invention.

Fig. 2A is-an end view of the machine shown in ls Fig. l looking in thedirection of the arrow 2l shown in Fig. l.

Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 1, partially insection and certain of the parts being broken away to more clearlyillustrate the construction of the machine.

Fig. 4. is a view of the machine perpendicular to that shown in Fig. 2.

Fig. 51 is a detail View showing the rib-forming plunger and certainaccessory parts.

Fig. 6is a top planv view showing the needle and the shoe underneath thesame.

Fig; '7 is a plan view of the shoe located underneath the curved needle,which forms the blind stitch.

Fig'. 8jis a front elevation showing the outside ofa pairoftrousersincluding the belt-receiving loops.

Fig. 9 is an insideview showing the curtain portion of the trousers.

Fig. 10Y is a detail sectional view showing how the blind stitch isformed. l

Fig. 11 isla sectional View showing the cornpleted trousers with thecurtain portion sewed thereto, so that the curtain portion is incompleted form.

It has been customary for many years to provide cotton curtains orcurtain portions upon the inside of the waist portion of a pair oftrousers. Said curtain portions were ordinarily made of cotton cloth,and the waistband of the trousers had a sheet of canvas or similarmaterial between the inside surface of the face fabric and said curtainsor curtain portions.

It has hitherto been necessaryvto sew said curtain portions by means oihand labor which was slow and expensive.

According to my invention, this work is accomplished by the formation ofa blind stitch, even though the exterior of the waistband portion of thetrousersis provided with the usual belt-receiving loops L. In order tocarry out this operation economically, it is necessary to modify thewell known type of sewing machine heretofore utilized in this industry,such as for example the Lewis machine which is well known in the trade.I have therefore-shown enough of the well known Lewis machine toillustrate the modifications necessary for carrying out the invention.

The blind stitch is formed by a curved needle 2 which cooperates with ashoe l located underneath said needle. This shoe 1 is modied so that itis provided with a bridge portion 3 intermediate thelegs thereof. Hence,when the layers of material are forced upwardly into the slot 4, bymeans of the rib-forming plunger 5, the goods are not crowded becausethe bridge portion 3 prevents the layers of material from being jammedagainst the inner side walls of the legs oi' the shoe 1. A

As shown in Fig. 10, the rib-forming plunger 5 is provided with a bluntround head so that a wide and relatively shallow rib or bight is formedto receive the curved needle in order to form the blind` stitch B.

As shown in Fig. 2, the machine has. a lower shaft 6 which is a rockshaft, this rock shaft being oscillated: by suitable mechanical means.

As shown in Fig. 3, the rock shaft 6 has an arm Z connected thereto, andthis arm 7 is connected tothe L-shaped block 8'so that the block 8 isreciprocated by the movement of the shaft 6.

AsA shown in Fig.` 3, the rib-forming plunger 5 is connected to the baseof the L-shaped block 8, by means of an ordinary nut 9.

Hence, the rib-forming plunger is vertically oscillated to form the ribor bight in the layers of material; te receive the needle, this movementpresenting no modification of the well known movement of the Lewismachine. However, it is tobe noted that the plunger 5 does not have theusual shape, and that as before mentioned, the shoe 1 has also beenmodified. The machine is provided with a second rock shaft 10 which isgiven an oscillating movement by means of an arm 1l connected to aneccentric of the actuating shaft.

As shown in Fig. 2, the rock shaft 10 has an arm 11d connected theretoso that this arm 11a is caused to oscillate by the movementof the rockshaft 10. The arm 11a is pivctally connected at 12 to the link 1li, andthis is pivotally connected at 15 to the bell crank lever 16. This bellcrank lever 16 is pivotally connected at 17 to a slide 29. The arm 16aof the bell crank lever 16 is pivotally connected to a link 17a which ispivotaily connected at 18 to the feed dogs F, so that the partspreviously described cause the vertical movement of said feed dogs F.

The machine also has a rock shaft 19 which is actuated by an arm 19aalso connected to an eccentric on the actuating shaft of the machine.The rock shaft 19 is provided with an arm 20 which is caused tooscillate, and this arm 20 is pivotally connected to a link 21 which ispivot- `ally connected to the feed dogs F, so that the horizontalmovement of the feed dogs F is thus produced.

The shoe 1 is stationary and the layers of material are raised andlowered by the slotted feedframe 25 which is provided with slots topermit the feeding movement of the feed dogs F.

As shown in Fig. 2, the feed-frame 25 is pivotally mounted at 26 to thevertically movable feedframe support 27. Said feed-frame support 27 visconnected to a vertical member 28, and this vertical member or rod 28 ismounted in a slide 29 which is guided in its movement by means of aguide member G. The slide or shoe 29 is urged to its upper position bymeans of a blade spring S.

As shown in Fig. e, said blade spring S contacts with the fixed block 30and an adjusting screw 31 is provided for regulating the pressure of thespring S. This pressure is made sufficiently slight to permit the facefabric T of the trousers to be fed along so that the blind stitch can beformed therein even if the rib-forming plunger 5 contacts with a loop L.

As shown in Fig. 3, the rock shaft 41 is provided with an arm i9 mountedthereon. When the arm is turned, as for example by a foot treadle, orthe like, it rocks the shaft 41, and this shaft 41 is provided with anextension which engages the slide block 29 so as to force the samedownwardly. This is done when the goods are i to be inserted into themachine.

The trousers have a face fabric T to which the belt loops L areconnected. The upper ends of the belt loops L are connected to theinturned edge of the face fabric T by means of ordinary transversestitches 60.

The face fabric is provided with an inner lining of canvas 50, and witha strip of cotton material 51.

As shown in Fig. 11, the strip of cotton material has a portion thereofunderneath the canvas layer.

The curtain portion C is turned so as to form two layers, and the innerlayer is connected to the cotton strip 51 and to the canvas lining 50 bymeans of the blind stitches B.

As shown in Fig. 1l, the inner layer of the cotton lining 51 isconnected to the face fabric T by means of ordinary transverse stitches61. Referring to the cotton lining member 51 shown in Fig. 11, this isdoubled or turned so that one layer thereof is adjacent the face fabricT. This layer which is directly adjacent said fabric T may be designatedas the outer layer and the other layer may be designated as the innerlayer, and it will be noted that the lower edge of the canvas member 59is located between said layers. Likewise, the curtain member C is turnedor doubled so as to present two layers. The layer of the curtain memberC which is directly adjacent the curtain lining member 51 may bedesignated as the outer layer of said curtain member C, since said outerlayer of the curtain member 6 is closest to the face fabric T.

The waistband portion of the face fabric T is connected to the main bodythereof by means of ordinary transverse stitches 62.

As shown in Fig. 10, the rib or bight in the layers of fabric can beformed adjacent the lower portions oi the belt loops L.

However, it would not be departing from the invention if the said bightwas formed along a line spaced from the bottom of the inner ends of theloops L.

However, in order to rapidly sew a pair of trousers, this cannot be donewith any great precision by the operator, and it is an importantadvantage of my invention that by providing the plunger 5 with arelatively fiat head, instead of the usual relatively sharp headcommonly used, that a broad shallow bight is formed in the layers ofmaterial Yso that the layers of material can be fed forwardly and thehead of the plunger 5 permits the loops L to slip over the same. Thiseffect is also secured by the proper regulation of the spring S.

Likewise, the goods are not jammed into the opening of the shoe l, whenthe bight is formed in the layers of material, so that the layers ofmaterial can be efficiently fed forward, while the row of blind stitchesB is being formed.

Likewise, the improved construction shown in Figs. 10 and 11 makes itpossible for the curtain C to be connected by blind stitches to anadditional double piece of fabric, which embraces the canvas orstiffening layer 50. While I do not wish to limit the invention to thespecific materials described, it is advantageous to provide a stiffeninglayer or piece 59 of relatively thick and stiff material, the partsbeing combined as shown in Fig. 11. It will be noted that the blindstitches are circumferential, that is, they are parallel to thewaistband.

While I have shown the piece of material 51 as comprising a single piecehaving a plurality of layers, the invention is not to be limited to thisone-piece construction. Likewise, while the curtain piece C consists ofa single sheet of material having a plurality of layers, one of which isdirectly adjacent the innermost layer of the piece of material 5l, theinvention is not to be limited to the one-piece construction of thecurtain piece C. In order to complete the garment, the free or outeredge of the curtain-piece C is folded in order to provide a smooth edge,and this is suitably sewed to the outer edge of the waistband in thewell-known manner. That is, the left hand side of the curtain C, whichis shown in Fig. 1l, is sewed to the top or left hand side of thewaistband of the trousers.

I have showna preferred embodiment of my invention, but it is clear thatnumerous changes and omissions could be made without departing from itsspirit.

I claim:

1. A pair of trousers having a waistband portion having a face fabricand having an inner piece of material located at the inside of saidwaistband portion, said inner piece of material having a plurality oflayers, one of which is adjacent said face fabric, said adjacent layerbeing connected to said waistband portion by transverse stitches, asecond inner piece of fabric having one edge located between the layersof said first mentioned piece of material, the other edge of said secondpiece of material being connected to the face fabric by transversestitches, and a curtain piece comprising a pair of layers, one of whichis adjacent the innermost layer of said iirst mentioned piece ofmaterial, the layer of said curtain piece which is directly adjacentsaid innermost layer of the first mentioned piece of material beingconnected to said innermost layer and to the second piece of material'by means of circumferential blind stitches.

2. A method of sewing a curtain piece to the inner side of the waistbandportion of a pair of trousers, which consists in sewing inner materialto the face fabric of said waistband portion withstitch, and feedingsaid layers of material forwardly intermediate the formation of blindstitches, said bight being formed sufficiently wide and shallow toprevent the clogging of the material during the feeding movementthereof.

3. A method of connecting the curtain member to a pair of trousers whichare provided with exterior loops at the waistband portion thereof, whichconsists in connecting inner material to the facing fabric of said pairof trousers by means of transverse stitches without sewing said innermaterial to the face fabric of the body of the trousers below the bottomof the waistband portion, and then connecting said curtain member tosaid inner material by circumferential blind stitches which are spacedfrom the inner ends of said loops. WILLIAM P. GOLDMAN.

